Caring for your central heating

• Don’t panic if you see steam coming from the heat pump; this is called the de-icing cycle. As the heat pump takes energy out of the air, ice can build up on the back of the heat pump. The de-icing cycle should only last a few minutes, and the frequency will depend on the humidity of the air, the amount of energy being taken out of the air and the period of time the energy is being taken. The de-icing cycle will happen more often when the outside air temperature is around 2.5°C but will happen less often when the air temperature is below 0°C, as there is less water in the air.
• Always keep the system running. Heat pump heating systems should not be turned off completely, if your home cools down it will require more energy to heat it back to a comfortable level. Your heating system control will have a “Comfort” temperature and “Set-back” rather than with a traditional heating system which may have been “on” or “off”.
• Remember the system is different to a traditional boiler. Your heat pump system has a weather compensation control as standard so when the weather outside is warmer, the flow temperature in the radiators and/or underfloor heating will be lower. They will feel cooler to touch but they will keep your home warm andcomfortable, whilst also making sure the heat pump is working as efficiently as possible. When the weather is cooler, the flow temperature will increase meaning your radiators will get hotter as the temperature outside gets colder.

Please keep the ASHP clear to allow for the required airflow. Ensure that you:

• remove any leaves and snow
• keep things away from the pump and do not use to stack things like bikes, garden furniture or toys.

Our homes with an ASHP have underfloor heating as standard. It is operated by the electrical mains in your consumer unit (fuse box).

It is important that you have the right flooring to enable heat to transfer throughout your home.

For carpets, we recommend that the total tog of the carpet and underlay is no more than 2.5. We specify a 0.75 tog underlay; Interfloor Duralay HeatFlow Carpet which works effectively with underfloor heating. You can of course have thicker carpets and underlay but this would slow down how quickly your home gets warm.

Vinyl flooring should be laid on adhesive approved by the manufacturer for use with underfloor heating. If you have chosen for us to fit Amtico in your home we will ensure that it is fitted using the Amtico High Temperature Extra adhesive as per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Tiled floors need a decoupling mat (or membrane) between your subfloor and tiles. It absorbs lateral movements caused by thermal expansion to prevent cracks appearing as the floor expands and contracts with each heating cycle.

Troubleshooting underfloor heating

Should your underfloor heating not be working, firstly you need to check that the isolation switch is turned to the ‘on’ position within the consumer unit (fuse box).

It is important to remember that the underfloor heating is there to warm the air and not your feet, some variation in temperature can be felt on the floor.  But if your underfloor heating is working but feels cold in some areas / rooms than others you need to firstly check the thermostat controls for the underfloor heating are set; the temperature you choose will need to exceed the current room temperature in order for the underfloor heating to activate. You also need to ensure that you are using the correct thermostat to set that zone. 

The orientation of your property will affect the temperature in individual rooms. The thermostat that operates the upstairs heating is located in bedroom one, which is a requirement we must adhere to as a housebuilder. In bedrooms which directly face the sun, the warmth generated can turn the heating off prematurely, even on cold or wintery mornings, which means that rooms not warmed by the sun can remain cold.

If you have an air source heat pump, our advice to counteract this is:

• Ensure that your system is continually running. As stated, heat pump heating systems should not be turned off completely, if your home cools down it will require more energy to heat your home back to a comfortable level. Your heating system control will have a “Comfort” temperature and “Set-back” rather than with a traditional heating system which may have been “on” or “off”.
• The wall mounted thermostat in bedroom one should be turned up to at least 26°C which will mean that for the period you carry out this exercise this room will be hotter than you would normally require. It may be of advantage to leave this bedroom door open to also allow for additional heat transfer to this room and you may find it advantageous to close the curtains in this room.
• The thermostatic valve mounted on the radiator in the room you feel is colder should be turned up to its highest setting for the period of the exercise.
• The actions described above will allow the radiator in the colder bedroom to operate for a longer period warming the room and also the fabric of the room.
• Once warm the insulation will start to retain the heat just as it has previously retained the cold and gradually over a period of about two weeks you can start to reduce both thermostats down. Turn the wall thermostat down by a half a degree a day and the radiator thermostat in what was the cold room down by a notch a day until in each room you find a level that is comfortable for you. Once you reach that comfortable temperature do not turn the thermostat down any further.
• If you have concerns that a room is too hot or cold then we would suggest placing a thermometer in the room and taking a note of the temperature 3 times per day for the period of a week and then we ask that you let us know the findings.

What you should expect from your service:

• Checks for corrosion and leaks.
• Checking all the main components of your boiler are working properly.
• A gas pressure check.
• A flue test.
• A clean of any parts that need it.
• A completed checklist of all relevant information.

Repressurising your hot water cylinder

Repressurising your hot water cylinder is quite simple. Here’s how:

1. Turn off your boiler.
2. Find the red expansion chamber at eye level, attached to the wall near the cylinder.
3. Find the chrome valves with black taps below the chamber. Turn the taps at 90 degrees across the pipes. If the braided flexible pipe (filling loop) is attached to both valves, go to point six.
4. Remove the two chrome ‘blanks’ on the valve outlets, turn anti-clockwise to loosen.
5. Find the filling loop attached to, or next to, one or both valve ends. Attach it to both valve ends by turning the end connectors clockwise until they are tight.
6. Turn the black valve closest to the pressure gauge so it’s in line with the pipe.
7. Turn the black handle on the other end through 90 degrees, constantly checking the needle on the pressure gauge, as you’re now repressurising your system. When it’s between 1.0 and 2.0 bars (1.5 is ideal), turn the valve handle back to its original position.
8. Repeat with the right-hand valve.
9. Turn the boiler back on. Remove the filling loop and replace the caps.

• The flue is checked to ensure it’s working properly and isn’t blocked.
• The flue gas is monitored for carbon monoxide.
• The main parts are cleaned and any damaged components are repaired or replaced.
• Internal components are inspected.
• A completed service report with details of the work.

Repressurising your combi boiler

If your combi boiler loses pressure it’ll be less efficient and may not function properly. There’s a pressure gauge in the control panel under the boiler; if it’s below the 1.0 bar you’ll need to repressurise.

It’s simple to do, just follow these instructions.

1. Turn off the boiler.
2. Find the chrome valves with black taps under the boiler, one on a pipe just off centre and the other on a pipe dropping from the boiler to the right. Ensure the taps are at 90 degrees to the pipe. If the braided flexible pipe is attached to both valves, go to point five.
3. Remove the two chrome ‘blanks’ from the valve outlets, turning anti-clockwise to loosen.
4. Find the braided, flexible pipe (filling loop) next to the boiler. Attach this to both valves by tightening the end connectors clockwise.
5. Keep turning until they are tight.
6. Turn the black valve on the right-hand valve 90 degrees so the handle is in line with the pipe.
7. Turn the black handle on the left-hand valve through 90 degrees. Check the pressure gauge, as you’re now repressurising the system. Keep going until the pressure is between 1.0 and 2.0 bars (1.5 is ideal). At this point, turn the valve handle back. Likewise with the right valve.
8. Turn the heating back on and remove the filling loop.

If you need to repressurise more than once in a three-month period, there may be a leak.

To ensure your two year warranty remains valid, you must service your air source heat pump, boiler, unvented hot water system (cylinder) and solar panels annually and/or in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. You can do this either via the manufacturer or an independent fully qualified plumber of electrician (depending on the system installed). For traditional gas fuelled heating systems, the contractor must be Gas Safe Registered.

Keeping a record of the service history will ensure that your two year warranty remains valid. If you do not service your heating system in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, this will render your warranty for these appliances as null and void.

Please note that not all service providers are able to undertake a full service to an unvented hot water system, please do ensure that your attending engineer is appropriately qualified to provide this service.

With district heating there is no need for annual safety checks on your HIU (heat interface unit).